Vietnamese Conical Hat – The Beauty of Simplicity

For generations, the conical hat (nón lá) has been a familiar and beloved image among Vietnamese people. Its rustic and graceful appearance not only serves the practical purpose of shielding from the sun and rain but also embodies a unique cultural identity. It is featured in many Vietnamese poems and songs, contributing to the gentle and charming image of Vietnamese women throughout history.

In the past, due to the tropical monsoon climate with intense sunlight and frequent rain, Vietnamese people began to use leaves woven together to cover their heads. Over time, the conical hat became an essential item in daily life. Made from simple, readily available materials such as palm leaves, conical leaves, and bamboo, the conical hat—through the skillful hands of artisans—has become a cultural symbol and a product of traditional craft villages for centuries.

There are many types of conical hats: “nón quai thao,” “nón bài thơ,” and the standard nón lá. Though they differ in form and structure, they all require meticulous craftsmanship. Making a conical hat starts with selecting and drying the leaves. The materials usually include palm or buong leaves (a relative of palm leaves, often found in midland hills). The leaves used must be neither too young nor too old. Before being used, they must be thoroughly sun-dried until soft and durable. The best leaves are milky white, with light green veins and a glossy surface. These leaves are typically harvested in the mountainous regions of Phú Thọ, Vĩnh Phúc, or the Việt Bắc, Trường Sơn, and Northwest areas. After harvesting, the leaves are processed properly and then bleached. In addition to the leaves, other materials needed include bamboo, rattan, fishing line, and thread.

First, the leaves are dried over charcoal and then exposed to dew to soften. Once soft enough, a hot iron wrapped in cloth is used to flatten the leaves. After that, the leaves are sorted again to ensure uniform color, trimmed to a length of about 50 cm. The frame of the conical hat is made from dry, flexible bamboo, which is shaved smooth and formed into rings of various diameters. These rings are then arranged from the base to the tip to form a cone shape. The typical frame consists of 16 rings, with the largest ring about 50 cm in diameter, decreasing in size towards the top, with the smallest ring the size of a coin. The rings must be perfectly round and evenly spaced to create a beautiful, balanced hat that complements the wearer’s features.

Next comes the leaf-laying stage, which requires great care to ensure the leaves are evenly distributed and layered without overlapping. Each hat usually has two layers of leaves with a layer of “mo lang” (a thin layer of bark) in between. The final step is sewing the hat using a needle and fine thread. The stitching must be even, following the circular shape of the hat. This stage requires precision and skill to ensure the hat is smooth and tightly sewn. The stitches must be short and the holes small to create a round, smooth surface from the leaf edges to the seams. Once complete, the hat is coated with a layer of varnish to improve durability and appearance. The chin strap is attached symmetrically on both sides, often made of velvet, silk, or thread in colours like orange, red, pink, or purple. To enhance its beauty, artisans may embroider images of girls, flowers, countryside scenes, or even poems onto the hat. A beautiful hat is the result of meticulous care and passion passed down through generations.

Each region in Vietnam has its own conical hat craft villages and distinctive styles. In the North, there is Chuông Village (Phú Xuyên District, Hanoi); in the Central region, Ba Đồn Village (Quảng Nam), and especially the poetic hats of Thừa Thiên Huế. In the South, conical hats are often sewn with a characteristic red thread, differing from those in Thanh Hóa. Huế's conical hats are known for their delicacy and elegance compared to the more robust hats from Bình Định.

The conical hat is a humble, rustic accessory that reflects the soul of the Vietnamese people. For many, especially farmers, it is an essential and trusted companion—used when going to the market, working in the fields, or as a fan during rest breaks. Alongside the traditional “áo dài,” the conical hat enhances the gentle, modest beauty of Vietnamese women. The image of a girl in an “áo dài” wearing a conical hat has become iconic of Vietnamese femininity.

The conical hat also holds a special place in the spiritual and cultural life of the Vietnamese. It appears in folk songs, poetry, and art, and is even featured in traditional performances, such as graceful hat dances. In traditional weddings, the mother-in-law may give the bride a conical hat as a heartfelt symbol of love and blessing for a lasting marriage. The conical hat is also a popular souvenir among foreign tourists. Because it is made from leaves, it should be handled gently, hung up when not in use, and kept dry to avoid warping or tearing. In the rain, it can be protected with a thin plastic cover, and if wet, it should be dried promptly to prevent staining.

The conical hat remains deeply connected to the everyday lives of the Vietnamese. It is inseparable from the image of the Vietnamese woman in her flowing “áo dài”—simple yet elegant. Through time, despite changes, many famous hat-making villages still exist in Vietnam, such as Chuông (Hà Tây), Đồng Di (Phú Vang), Dạ Lê (Hương Thủy), and especially Phủ Cam (Huế). These villages not only produce exquisite conical hats but also attract tourists eager to witness and experience the craftsmanship firsthand.