The Hidden Architectural Gem of Saigon’s Old Market: The Story of 68 Ton That Dam
Who built this beautiful house? It is a stunning fusion of Asian and European architecture, sitting weathered in the heart of the city. Its signboard features elegant, flowing "Regular Script" (Kai-shu) calligraphy, and its doors are almost always closed. Have you ever walked past and wondered about its story?
A Contrast of Eras
Looking at the traditional yin-yang roof tiles set against the backdrop of shimmering modern skyscrapers, one truly appreciates the visual contrast of Saigon. Located in the "Chợ Cũ" (Old Market) on Ton That Dam Street, this house is currently in a state of significant decay. However, its vast, undulating red-tiled roof reveals its true scale.
The architecture is unique—a modern Art Deco style featuring a stepped facade, square windows, and clean, minimalist lines. Yet, the traditional roofing and overall layout pull the viewer’s perspective back through time.
The Identity of the Builder
Who does this house belong to? Looking above the balcony, the left pillar still bears the inscription: "Built by the Hua Toan Ky family in Saigon." The right pillar indicates that the building underwent a major restoration in 1944.
The central signboard reads: "Tây Cống Quảng Triệu - Trung Hoa Tổng Lý Sự Hội Quán" (The Cantonese Assembly Administrative Office of Saigon).
This name often causes confusion. Some Vietnamese records suggest this was a government office for the Chinese community established by the French. In reality, that administrative body was located on Trieu Quang Phục Street under a slightly different name. This building on Ton That Dam served a more specific, localized purpose. During its peak, it was the coordination hub for the Tue Thanh Assembly Hall (Nguyen Trai St.), the Quang Trieu Assembly Hall (Vo Van Kiet St.), and various business, cultural, and construction activities of the Cantonese community.
The Cantonese Assembly Office
The "Old Market" area was once part of the original Ben Thanh Market before it was relocated. While other assembly offices (such as those for the Teochew and Fujian communities) once stood on this street, the Canton Assembly Office remains the most prominent landmark. Originally constructed in 1894, it was later restored by the Hua Toan Ky family in 1944.
The Cantonese leaders who worked here were also the founders of the Khai Minh School on Pho Duc Chinh Street. The school’s first principal, Hua Trac Ky, likely shared a close connection with the builder, Hua Toan Ky. In 1928, the upper floor of 68 Ton That Dam was even used as a dormitory for teachers and students.
A Silent Relic in a Busy City
Today, the building is heavily dilapidated. Despite its condition, it remains a primary reason why people visit the Old Market or seek out rooftop cafes across the street just to catch a glimpse of its roof.
Currently maintained by a Cantonese family living within its walls, the house remains shrouded in moss and history. The residents have kept the doors tightly shut for nearly fifty years, remaining disconnected from the bustling world outside, separated only by a thin iron fence.
The aged stone textures and the waves of red tiles continue to shine amidst the cramped market. Though imposing in size, the structure exudes a delicate grace. The next time you walk past, remember: this isn't just an old house. It was once a center of power where vital decisions for Saigon’s immigrant community were made—a foundation of the city that history has nearly forgotten.