Binh Loi Bridge: Three Centuries of History Across the Saigon River
As the iron structures of the old Binh Loi Bridge are carefully dismantled, a silent witness to three centuries of Saigon’s transformation begins its final chapter. Once the vital "first artery" spanning the Saigon River, this historic railway bridge remains a symbol of resilience through colonial times, war, and the modern era.
1. The First Span Over the Saigon River
While many associate the bridge with its 118-year operational life, its roots go back even further. In his memoirs, "Indochina," Governor-General Paul Doumer noted that 1897 marked a turning point for Vietnam's infrastructure. Binh Loi was part of a prestigious trio of steel bridges commissioned alongside Hanoi’s Long Bien and Hue’s Trang Tien.
Construction began at the turn of the century, and Binh Loi was officially inaugurated in January 1902—remarkably opening its tracks just one month before the famous Long Bien Bridge. Built by the renowned contractor Levallois-Perret (successor to the Eiffel Company), the bridge required extraordinary engineering for its time, with foundations reaching depths of 31 meters beneath the riverbed.
2. A Masterpiece of French Engineering
Spanning 276 meters with six spans, Binh Loi featured a unique design element: a 40-meter rotating span. Unlike the high clearance of Long Bien, Binh Loi was built lower to the water. To allow tall-masted sailing ships to pass through during high tide, the central span could rotate—a mechanical marvel of the early 20th century.
Historical records show that this rotation was strictly scheduled, usually occurring between 2:00 AM and 3:00 AM to minimize disruption to train and road traffic. Trains always held priority; if a locomotive was delayed, the bridge would remain closed until the tracks were clear.
3. A Witness to "Bao Cuộc Bể Dâu" (The Upheavals of Time)
Throughout the 1900s, Binh Loi Bridge became a backdrop for the daily lives and dramatic shifts of Saigon:
- The Golden Era: In the 1940s and 60s, the bridge was a popular weekend destination. Families would drive out to sip coconut water, fish, and watch the steam engines roar by. Elegant students often posed for photos by the bridge’s polished copper nameplate.
- The Scars of War: Despite heavy Allied bombing in 1945 aimed at Japanese supply lines, the bridge miraculously remained standing while many others fell. Later, it became a strategic point during military coups, even seeing its rotating mechanism intentionally disabled to block troop movements.
4. Preserving the Memory
Today, a modern concrete bridge stands alongside the rusted remnants of the old steel giant. While the original structure is being removed to clear the way for larger vessels, a small section near the bank will be preserved as a historical landmark.
As researcher Nguyen Dinh Tu (now over 100 years old) poignantly noted, it is essential to document these stories. Even as we speed across modern highways, we must remember the iron bridge that carried the weight of three centuries, connecting the past of old Saigon to the future of Ho Chi Minh City.