The Secret Street Food Paradise of Saigon Central Post Office: A Pre-1976 Legend
As someone born and raised in Saigon, every time I walk past the Saigon Central Post Office, I usually view it as a magnificent colonial landmark, a scenic photo spot, or a convenient place to mail a postcard.

But while researching vintage urban archives, I uncovered an astonishing piece of forgotten history:
Before 1976, the sidewalks on both sides of the Post Office's main entrance were home to a legendary street food paradise!
This vibrant culinary corner was deeply woven into the teenage memories of elite students from Lasalle Taberd School (now Tran Dai Nghia High School on Nguyen Du Street). Step back in time with us to see how the "wealthy kids" of our grandparents' generation enjoyed high-end street food right on the Post Office steps!
1. The Gourmet Taste of Lasalle Taberd Schoolboys
According to historical memoirs by author Vũ Văn Chính, students attending Taberd School in that era mostly came from wealthy, prominent families. With generous morning pocket money, these young scholars were remarkably discerning epicures with sophisticated palates.
Selling food to this clientele on the Post Office pavement was no easy task—which meant every dish sold along these sidewalks had to be extraordinary, high-quality, and unique:
The Left Side: Savory French Innovations
To the left of the main Post Office entrance stood the famous Hương Lan Shop. Their signature creation was the iconic "Bánh mì cóc" (toad bread)—a round, plump French bread roll stuffed with savory shredded chicken and coated in rich, velvety homemade French butter (beurre). Right beside it were warm, flaky Pâté Chaud pastries fresh from the oven.
The Right Side: Morning Coffee & Whimsical Sweets
The right side of the Post Office catered to senior students sipping morning coffee while socializing. But the real attraction lay in the inventive dessert creations:
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Syrup with Ice Cream: A refreshing glass of fruit syrup topped with a scoop of rich, cold ice cream.
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Bread & Butter Ice Cream Bowls: Sweet milk bread stuffed with scoops of creamy ice cream, drizzled with sweetened condensed milk, and topped with crunchy roasted crushed peanuts.
2. A Sizzling Symphony of Flavors on the Post Office Steps
Beyond French-inspired pastries and ice cream desserts, the Post Office precinct resonated with the irresistible aromas of traditional Southern Vietnamese delicacies:
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Sizzling Bột Chiên: Plates of crisp, golden fried rice flour cakes served piping hot with green papaya and tangy soy sauce.
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Mr. Mạ’s Beef Jerky Salad (Gỏi Khô Bò): Famous for the rhythmic, artistic "clack-clack-clack" of his metal scissors slicing dried beef over shredded green papaya, tossed in a fiery chili sauce. Eating a bowl of spicy gỏi dried beef right by the Post Office just as the school bell rang was an unforgettable rush.
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Refreshing Bò Bía Rolls: Delicate rice paper wrapped around sweet jicama, Chinese sausage, dried shrimp, and fresh herbs.
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Fragrant Broken Rice & Pork Skin Bread: Sizzling lemongrass pork chops over charcoal grates, alongside vendor baskets (gánh) serving savory shredded pork skin bread (bánh mì bì) topped with secret family fish sauce recipes.
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Sweet & Sour Pickle Carts: Wooden pushcarts piled high with preserved green mangoes, ambarella (cóc), and star gooseberries.
3. The End of an Era & The Living Spirit of Saigon
In 1976, when Taberd School closed its doors, the iconic street food haven beside the Post Office gradually disbanded, officially drawing the curtain on a legendary era of student street food culture.
For a 20-year-old living in modern Saigon today, discovering these hidden historical chapters is more than just learning about old recipes. It offers a fascinating window into the refined taste, urban sophistication, and vibrant spirit of vintage Saigon right at its central post office.
For older generations who lived through those years, what memories do you hold of the old Post Office food corner? Share your stories with us!
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