The Rich History of Phở: Vietnam’s Iconic Noodle Soup from Nam Dinh to Hanoi

Nam Dinh, a lesser-known province nestled in the Red River Delta, often goes unnoticed by travelers. While it's recognized for its agricultural landscapes and stunning churches, its most iconic contribution to Vietnamese cuisine is the beloved beef noodle soup, phở bò.

Phở's origin story is intertwined with Vietnam's rich history, filled with legends and tales. Though Nam Dinh is thought to be the birthplace of this famous dish, it's Hanoi where phở truly flourished, becoming a staple in the city's morning routines.

From the crack of dawn, phở stalls pop up on Hanoi’s bustling streets. Steam rises as bowls are assembled with soft rice noodles, tender beef slices, and fragrant herbs. Each bowl is customized to taste, with diners adding their preferred amounts of lime, chili, basil, and hoisin sauce.

Though the roots of phở can be traced back to Nam Dinh, it was Hanoi’s unique historical and cultural environment that elevated the dish. The dish's history dates back to the late 19th century when French colonialism spurred demand for beef. The excess bones from the French culinary influence were utilized by Vietnamese and Chinese vendors, leading to the creation of the rich broth that defines Nam Dinh's version of phở.

As phở evolved in Hanoi, it transitioned from a humble dish made with buffalo meat and rice vermicelli to the more refined and delicate beef noodle soup we know today. Migrant workers from China’s Yunnan and Guangdong provinces found it reminiscent of their own cuisine, while locals quickly fell in love with this savory, beef-based creation. By the 1930s, the sight of gánh phở—mobile phở vendors—became a familiar part of Hanoi’s vibrant street food culture.

Throughout the years, phở became embedded in Vietnamese culture, celebrated for its universal appeal. Poet Tu Mo even penned an ode to phở, emphasizing its role as a dish cherished by people from all walks of life.

Like the country itself, phở has experienced changes over time. When the dish migrated south following the partition of Vietnam in 1954, southern chefs adapted it by sweetening the broth and adding an abundance of fresh herbs and sauces like hoisin and chili. To this day, the debate continues between northern and southern variations of phở—the simple, purist version of Hanoi versus the herb-heavy, sweeter southern adaptation. Yet, both versions remain beloved across the country.

Despite these regional differences, phở has maintained its essence. While new variations and ingredients have emerged, such as different cuts of beef and even chicken phở (phở gà), the dish's core remains unchanged. Even modern experiments, such as Anan Saigon's extravagant $100 bowl featuring truffle oil and foie gras, have kept the fundamental flavors intact.

Today, a traditional bowl of phở features a slow-simmered broth made from beef bones, oxtail, charred ginger, onions, and spices like star anise, cinnamon, and cloves. Whether served with beef or chicken, each region of Vietnam brings its unique touch to the dish. In the north, the garnishes are simple—fresh chili, lime, and herbs—while southern variations are typically sweeter and more elaborate. Central Vietnam even boasts its own version, sometimes featuring poached eggs.

As one of the world's most iconic noodle dishes, phở has earned its place as a symbol of Vietnamese cuisine, cherished by locals and visitors alike.